From its humble beginnings as a fishing community along the swamps at the southeast end of Panay Island, Iloilo has become one of the country’s most important provinces. It has long been considered the cultural, religious, educational, commercial, manufacturing and transportation center of Western Visayas.
After the Spanish colonial government opened the seaport of Iloilo to international trade in 1855, Iloilo proved to be an important trading post. With its harbor protected from the open seas by the scenic Guimaras Islands, many traders found Iloilo’s serene and calm waters safe for navigation.
When former British vice-consul Nicolas Loney introduced modern sugar farming in the province at the turn of the century, Iloilo further solidified its reputation as the center of trade in the region. The whole world was doing business in the port, especially during the heyday of the sugar industry.
With sugar in abundance in the province, many made their fortunes as they cashed in on the growing trade opportunities. The wealth was manifested everywhere from the improved roads and majestic churches to the stately mansions and commercial buildings inspired by European and American architecture.
Today, these old buildings jostle for prime real estate space with shopping malls and high-rise condominiums being constructed in Iloilo City, the capital city of the province.
Interior of Amalfi
Eugenio M. Jamerlan of the Iloilo City Cultural Heritage Conservation Council said various efforts are being done to make sure that this fast-growing modern city will be able to keep its old-world charm amid the wave of modernization.
In April 2000, the Local Cultural Conservation Ordinance was enacted by the City Government of Iloilo to prevent further destruction of heritage sites in the city and to preserve establishments to be reused for commercial, tourism, educational or institutional functions.
The Iloilo City Cultural Heritage Conservation Council is the overseer of the heritage conservation efforts in the city.
"Educating the citizens and efforts from the building owners themselves for preserving or restoring the cultural heritage structures is gradually being implemented," Mr. Jamerlan told Manila-based reporters last week.
STATELY HOUSES
Various old homes are proof of Iloilo’s glorious past. A trip around the province is like touring a museum of old edifices that survived the onslaught of war, the elements and time.
One of these old homes popular among tourists is the Nelly Gardens (pictured above) located in Jaro, northwest from Iloilo City proper. Built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez for his beloved wife Elena Hofileña, the white mansion-estate was named after their favorite daughter, Nelly.
The Nelly Gardens was built on two hectares of farm rice land which Don Vicente bought of a peso for each square meter.
While Doña Elena had eight gardeners tending to her orchids, roses, hydrangeas and other flower varieties, Don Vicente added a lagoon for boat rides, a tennis court, a mini-golf course and a swimming pool to the estate.
Trifles at Nothing but Desserts
As the couple loved to entertain, annexes to the house and guest houses were built around the mansion. The mansion was built with only the best materials. Tindalo — the hardest and rarest of Philippine wood — was used for the floors, while narra was used for the walls.
After World War II, Don Vicente’s and Doña Elena’s youngest daughter Lilia and her husband Don Francisco Jison began restoring the mansion to its former glory and made Nelly Gardens their home.
To replace all the furniture and works of art lost or sold, the couple traveled and purchased extensively in Hong Kong and Japan.
One will learn about the Lopez family history from the extensive photographs displayed and the albums that visitors can peruse at the mansion’s family heritage room. There are books containing the names of members of the Lopez clan — complete with alphanumeric code numbers for each name indicating the person’s connection to the family.
The mansion’s music and game area houses an antique billiard table believed to be the first in Iloilo City, while the dining room has a long narra table that can accommodate up to 24 guests.
The second floor of the house has five bedrooms, several of which are still being used by the Jison family who come often to check on the family business.
The grounds of the Nelly Gardens are now available for corporate parties, weddings and other special occasions.
Most of the commercial and residential establishments along Calle Real are one- or two-storey buildings with Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Baroque or Venetian-inspired influences. Shops are on the street level while the second levels are either offices or residential spaces.
The classy interiors of Bauhinia
On the northern end of the street are the Iloilo Provincial Capitol and Arroyo Fountain. The former was built from wood and stone in 1840 and feature Greek columns. A flagpole in front of the Capitol was torn down in 1927 to give way to the Arroyo Fountain with its caryatids bearing a basin with fish gargoyles. The fountain was dedicated to Senator Jose Maria Arroyo who created the Iloilo Metropolitan Waterworks.
"Commonwealth-era establishments lined up not just the main street of Calle Real but also its branches of Aldeguer, Iznart and Guanco Streets. The public market of Iloilo, for example, is predominantly art deco in design," Mr. Jamerlan said.
"But damages the passage of time, World War II, the great earthquake of 1948 and the big fire in the downtown area has left the old buildings neglected, mismanaged and decayed."
MODERN ENTERTAINMENT
As the city works on preserving old edifices, Iloilo City is bustling with urban vibe of economic growth and development. The younger generation is making history as new entertainment complexes OPEN providing opportunities for tourists to sample the variety of gastronomical choices available.
Along Benigno Aquino Avenue (more commonly known as Diversion Road in Mandurriao District) is a series of buildings formally known as Pison Complex.
Within this complex is the Avenue, which has restaurants, bars and clubs where Ilonggos and tourists go to eat, drink, and spend a fun night out in the city.
Johnny O. Que, owner of Avenue, said the place is a popular nightspot in Iloilo.
"Guests have many options here. Many visitors and even those from nearby provinces come here especially on weekends," he told reporters.
Mouthwatering Mojave Cowboy Steak
Among the restaurants in Avenue is Bauhinia, where traditional Filipino dishes get modern gastronomic twists like Kare-KarengPata (fried pork trotters in peanut-annatto sauce and sautéed vegetables), Tinuom na Sugpo (prawns wrapped in pechay and simmered in a coconut-kaffir broth) and Lechon de Rondalla (boneless pork belly roulade served with homemade liver sauce).
Near Bauhinia is Amalfi Cucina Italiana, which offers Chilean Seabass served with wild mushrooms and truffle fondue, roasted garlic and chili oil, among other dishes.
Meanwhile, meat lovers will enjoy Mojave Grill and Steakhouse as well as the American bistro Bourbon Street. Mojave offers Texas-Mexican fare like char-grilled US Certified Angus Beef and Texas Pork Ribs in spicy barbecue sauce while Bourbon Street’s signature dish is Bourbon Barbecue Ribs, grilled tender pork ribs served with a "secret" Bourbon barbecue sauce.
For those who like to dance the night away, Avenue has Aura where some of Iloilo’s best DJs spin the best club tunes. Guests can sample bar chow like Norwegian salmon nachos and unique cocktail concoctions like Sorrentino which combines mangoes, sambucca, vodka and lime.
Dessert lovers, meanwhile, can head to Nothing But Desserts and choose from its wide array of continental desserts made with top-quality ingredients. The candy-colored shop offers at least 60 different options at any given time, with a variety of hot, chilled and frozen desserts that are just too tempting to pass up.
Popular choices are Chocolate Lust Trifle, a triple delight of whipped cream, strawberry and chocolate chiffon cake and Chocolate Almond Praline, a lip-smacking combination of chocolate cake and almond praline.
Elsewhere, one can visit any of the numerous Coffee Break coffee shops, Waffle Time carts or Green Mango Filipino fastfood stores scattered around Iloilo to complete one’s gastronomic adventure.
Coffee Break brews fresh coffee that can rival international coffee chains while Waffle Time offers sweet or savory waffles for as low as P10 each.
Green Mango combines comfort and affordability in offering home-cooked Filipino dishes. Its seven branches offer best-sellers like Lechon Kawali and Adobo as well as their Green Mango Burger.
As old houses endure as silent reminders of the past, new establishments emerge to offer glimpses at what Iloilo can become in the future. Indeed, Iloilo offers the best of both worlds.
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Text and Photos by Jeffrey Valisno
courtesy of BusinessWorldOnline.