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What to do in Iloilo: Backpacker's Guide Part 1



Iloilo City and beyond by Felipe Uygongco
Upon arrival at the Iloilo International Airport, you can already start exploring Iloilo's heritage, history and gastronomy. A perfect way to commence your journey is in the town of Santa Barbara.
Santa Barbara church and convent
Located just 10 minutes from the airport, you may opt to take the multicab vans then tricycle to the historic town. It is recommended that you first check the Santa Barbara Centennial Museum to register, visit and ask for an itinerary suggestion. Among the places of interest are the more than 150-year old Santa Barbara church, convent and gardens, the Flagpole Park (currently the tallest and biggest in the country), the town plaza with its historic monuments, the "burning"  water called poso, hand-made Belgian lace making at WUTHLE and the Iloilo Golf and Country Club (the oldest in Southeast Asia). For local delicacies, just  ask around for bingka, baye-baye, bitso-bitso and puto, among others. 
Baye-baye and Bingka in Santa Barbara
A 30-minute jeepney ride/s from Santa Barbara, takes you to Jaro, one of the 5 districts of Iloilo. The imposing Jaro Cathedral and its belfry dominate the scene around the plaza. Among the attractions of Jaro are the numerous mansions which are along the jeepney routes.The likes of Nelly Garden, Lizares Mansion (Angelicum), Casa Mariquit and Antillan House, among other, showcases the rich and illustrious past of Iloilo City. For foodies, check out Afrique's, Bavaria, Buto't Balat, Patpat's Kansi and Perri Todd's, among others. Jaro is also the pasalubong capital of Iloilo - check out Deocampo (makers of barquillos since 1898), Biscocho Haus, Panaderia ni Pa-a (since 1898), PJ's, and Rgies delicacies. Read more about JARO, ILOILO
Sights and tastes of Jaro
Another 10-minute jeepney ride frm Jaro, brings you to Lapaz. And what else is famous in Lapaz than a hot steaming bowl of Lapaz Batchoy. Just head to the Lapaz Market for you batchoy fill - there's Ted's Oldtimer having two branches in the are, Deco's Original and if you go inside and snake around the market you'll find Netong's Original Special Lapaz batchoy. Continue your food trip with a cup or two of native coffee at Madge Cafe - a melting pot of different generations, people from all walks of life and who's who especially in politics - check our their wall of fame! Other notable food stop in the market are Lapaz bakeshop (try their ube brazo de mercedes) and a row of halo-halo stalls like 5G's Halo-Halo stand. A short ride brings you to Lapaz plaza area where you can check out the church and CM Bamboocrafts.
Lapaz batchoy
Accommodation plays a big role on how one’s vacation turns out to be. Different travelers have different reasons when choosing their “second home” no matter it may be. Most consider their budget and the rates, others the proximity to transport and purpose, while some to the sights and attractions a particular place has.  Read more about Where to Stay in Iloilo
Where to stay in Iloilo
As a backpacker most of the time, I often choose the most budget friendly at the same time convenient place to stay. In Iloilo, the most popular would be Ong Bun Pensione House (near Robinsons's Iloilo) with privates rooms for as low as PhP330/night (single fan room and shared bath) and Single aircon rooms with bath for as low as PhP395. Go Hotels  is just nearby conveniently located at Robinson's Place Iloilo by the Other budget accommodation options would be Queen's Pensione in Jaro, Emperor's Pension in Lapaz. Affordable hotels include 88 Plaza Hotel along Delgado Street, Highway 21 Hotel, Fine Rock Hotel, among others. 
Downtown Iloilo
Downtown Iloilo is a treasure of heritage both historical and gastronomic. From any of the accommodations above, it's another short jeepney ride to Museo Iloilo - an ideal place to star the downtown tour, and discover Iloilo's past through their array of displays. The facade is among the most popular photo for an Iloilo vacation photo. Walk through some old mansions in the area and drop by the Capitol area with both the old and new buildings contrasting each other. The Arroyo Fountain fronting the newly renovated Casa Real (old capitol) marks Kilometer 0 to all points in Panay Island.
The for International Hotel at night
A short ride brings you to Plazoleta Gay which is a small rotunda connecting 5 major roads in the downtown area including Calle Real. This street used to be the main business and financial district of Iloilo but as everything shifts in the outskirts, the area is now the showpiece of Iloilo's heritage buildings being restored to their former glory. Around 10 buildings have already been restored and its a delight to have a walking tour along JM Basa seeing buildings built in the 1920's up to 1950's still being used. Popular and iconic snackshops can be found like Roberto's and the "Buho" bakery.
View from the Top
Plaza Libertad is at the other end of Calle Real surrnounded by San Jose Church, Masonic Temple and Iloilo City Hall. The City Gallery, located on the ground floor of the Iloilo City Hall, showcases the best of Iloilo to visitors and guests. But a trip to the rooftop viewing deck seeing an almost 360 degree view of Iloilo often highlights the visit. One can view the "nose" of the Iloilo River, get a glimpse of the nearby island of Guimaras, see the old down town and look into the future as developments mark the horizon. (A quick trip to Fort San Pedro will have visitors "almost touching" Guimaras. Here's a Traveler's Guide to Guimaras )
Molo Church and plaza
Another jeepney ride from Plaza Libertad brings you to Molo district (just take Molo Baluarte jeeps). There you'll marvel at the grandeur of the Molo Church and Plaza. Inside, you ll find that all saints on the pedestals are women earning the church the nickname "The Feminists Church". A number of old mansions dot the streets surrounding the plaza. Check out the Molo Mansion and snack on Jo-Ann's Fish Balls.  A short walk is Panaderia de Molo, which opened in the mid 1800's and still uses old world baking methods. The Dominican Sister's Mother House is also worth the visit - check out their museum too!
Leisurely eating beside the beach at Breaktrhough
A short ride from Molo brings one to the district of Arevalo - but is more popularly called Villa, a nickname of "La Villarica de Arevalo". It is the flower, seafood, fireworks and lechon capital of Iloilo City with all these present along the streets. Villa Beach is home to many seafood restaurants with Tatoy's and Breakthrough leading the pack. The Arevalo church and convent houses the 3rd oldest image of Sto. Nino on the country. Attractions include the Sinamay House (for woven products), Mama's Kitchen (for delectable cookies) and one of Iloilo City's top tourist attractions - the CamiƱa Balay nga Bato.
Built in 1860, this ancestral house is a living museum as guests can experience the lifestyle back in the more than a century ago. A curio shop is housed on the ground floors showcasing antiques, artisanal wares and the house product - hablon. Iloilo used to be the textile capital of the Philippines back then with Arevalo as one of the main producers. The house pays tribute to its heritage by having their own weavers and selling the products. On the second floor, the grandeur of the house is shown from the flooring and furniture to the ceiling. It is heritage coming to life as the house is still a home as the 4th generation of the AvanceƱas still lives in the same house. But the highlight of the visit is "the Tsokolate Experience" - rich and thick tablea tsokolate served with Ilonggo biscuits!You can also have Kapitan Ising's Pancit Molo, Dac's Kutsinta and a lot of Ilonggo biscuits.
Iloilo Esplanade by Paulo Alcazaren
A jeepney ride back to Molo Plaza and a short walk bring you to the Carpenter Bridge connecting Molo and Mandurriao districts. It is the "terminus" of the 1.2 kilometer Iloilo Esplanade which is built along the banks of the Iloilo River. It is a very popular spot during sunset until nighttime as Ilonggo take a leisurely walk, jog and even do the zumba in style! On the other end, The Esplanade opens up to Smallville which is Iloilo City's prime nightspot with lots of restaurants, discos, hotels and more.

These are just some of  Iloilo's sights and sounds you can enjoy without making a big dent in your pocket. What you do, where to stay and what you eat in Iloilo, really depends on how well researched you are into a particular place. But sometimes, its the unexpected and unplanned things that make any visit more memorable! Enjoy!

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